I could tell by the transport delays, the 8 hour standing train trip, the excessive food intake, the consumerism, the comments on weight gain/loss in the same breath as the greetings, and the ridiculous administrative problems we have already encountered.
I have the kind of love/hate relationship with this country that only occurs when you know another culture just about inside-out.
On the positive side, lots of nephew love, lots of goood food (I know I just complained about that about 2 lines ago). Lots of laughs with Salva and the family. Lots of Christmas and quite a few extra degrees in the air.
And a magical country house among the olive trees that is so close to being ours....
Merriest of Christmasses!